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This standard was drafted in accordance with regulations given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces GB/T 14272-2002 "Down garments". Compared with GB/T 14272-2002 "Down garments", this standard has the following major changes:
——The application scope of the standard was modified (see Chapter 1, Chapter 1 of 2002 edition);
——The normative references were supplemented (see Chapter 2, Chapter 2 of 2002 edition);
——Chapter 3 "Terms and definitions" wad added (see Chapter 3);
——The contents of instructions for use were supplemented (see 4.1, 3.1 of 2002 edition);
——The assessment requirements for the filler were modified (see 4.4, 3.4 of 2002 edition);
——The technical requirements of the appearance defects were modified (see 4.8, 3.8 of 2002 edition);
——The assessment requirements for the detachable carcinogenic aromatic amine dyes, color fastness to water, fabric down-drilling-resistant property and children's and infant's wear safety were added (see 4.12);
——The assessment requirements for the seam stress of trousers back crotch seam were deleted (see 3.12.2 of 2002 edition);
——Judgment contents of finished product quality defects and single piece appearance judgment requirements were modified (see 6.2.3 and 6.4.1, 5.2.3 and 5.4.1 of 2002 edition);
——Appendix "Test methods for slipping degree of seam" was modified (see Appendix D, Appendix A of 2002 edition);
——Appendix "Sampling location for seam stress test of trousers back crotch seam" was deleted (see Appendix B of 2002 edition);
——Appendix A "Physical and chemical index requirements of feather and down", Appendix C "Test method of feather and down", Appendix E "Test method of the fabric down-drilling-resistant property -friction test method" and Appendix F "Microstructures and features of goose and duck feather and down" were added (see Appendix A, Appendix C, Appendix E and Appendix F).
This standard is proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of the Down Garments Subcommittee of the National Technical Committee 219 on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219/SC 1).
Chief drafting organizations of this standard: Shanghai Garment Research Institute, Hangzhou Institute of Calibration and Testing for Quality and Technical Supervision, Shenzhen Academy of Metrology& Quality Inspection, Bosideng Co., Ltd., Jiangsu Snow Flying Garment Co., Ltd., Shandong Bosideng Fashion Co., Ltd., ERAL Group Co., Ltd., Yalu Group Stock Co., Ltd., Shanghai Kangbo Feida Garment Co., Ltd., Zhejiang Semir Garment Co., Ltd., Nike Sports (China) Co., Ltd.
Chief drafting staffs of this standard: Xu Jian, Gu Hongfeng, Yang Zhimin, Gao Dekang, Gao Xiaodong, Cao Zonghua, He Rongjun, Gu Zhenhua, Gao Jianzhong, Zhu Xiuli, Peng Hualing, Zhong Hao, Guo Cijing, Yang Ming.
The previous editions of the standards replaced by this standard are as:
——GB/T 14272-1993, GB/T 14272-2002.
Down Garments
1 Scope
This standard specifies the terms and definitions, requirements, testing methods, inspection classification rules, and marking, packaging, transportation and storage for the down garments.
This standard is applicable to the various garments produced with textile fabrics as the main shell fabric and down as the main filler.
2 Normative References
The following documents are indispensable for the application of this standard. For dated references, only the dated edition is applicable to this document. For undated references, the latest editions of the normative documents (including all the amendments) are applicable to this document.
GB/T 250 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Grey scale for assessing change in colour
GB/T 1335.1 Standard sizing systems for garments - Men
GB/T 1335.2 Standard sizing systems for garments - Women
GB/T 1335.3 Standard sizing systems for garments - Children
GB/T 2910(All the parts) Textiles- Quantitative chemical analysis
GB/T 2912.1 Textiles-determination of formaldehyde - part 1: free and hydrolized formaldehyde (water extraction method)
GB/T 3920 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to rubbing
GB/T 3921 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda
GB 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest--Instructions for use of textiles and apparel
GB/T 5713 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to water
GB/T 6529 Textiles-Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
GB/T 7573 Textiles-Determination of pH of the aqueous extract
GB/T 8170 Rules of rounding off for numerical values & expression and judgment of limiting values
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
GB/T 17592 Textiles - Determination of the banned azo colourants
GB/T 18132 Silk garments
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 22702 Standard safety size for drawstrings on children’s upper wear
GB/T 22705 Safety specifications for cords and drawstrings on children’s clothing
GB/T 23344 Textiles - Determination of 4-aminoazobenzene
FZ/T 01053 Textiles-Identification of fiber content
FZ/T 80002 Marking packaging transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 81014 Infants wear
3 Terms and Definitions
For the purpose of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
Feather
Feather is a kind of light, tough, elastic and water-proof structure, grown due to the materialization of epidermal horn, covering on the body surface of duck and goose.
3.2
Down
Down is of flexible pinnule, small feather, long and thin pinnule, not of valvular, growing on the body surface of duckling and goose, or on the pluma base of duck and goose.
3.3
Down
It is the generic term of down cluster, nestling down, similar down and damaged down.
3.3.1
Down cluster
It refers to the down grows on the chest and belly, back area and two ribs of the duck and goose, in the cluster shape of a great many down fiber radiated from one down core.
3.3.2
Nestling down
It refers to the undeveloped down, of relatively short down fiber, with petiolule, in the umbrella shape.
3.3.3
Similar down
It is with thin and flexible stem, thin and dense pinnule, filiform and disorderly end.
3.3.4
Damaged down
It refers to the down, for which two and more down fibers are radiated from one down core.
3.4
Down fiber
It refers to the single down fiber shed from the down or feather root.
3.5
Feather
It refers to the soft feather growing all over the body of duck or goose.
3.6
Long feather
It refers to the feather above 7cm long for the duck feather and above 8cm long for the goose feather.
3.7
Feather fiber
It refers to the single pinnule shed from the feather surface.
3.8
Nestling feather
Nestling feather has blood vessels at the bottom, above two thirds of which has formed the feather.
3.9
Colorful feather and down
It refers to the colorful feather and down in the white goose or duck feather and down.
3.10
Landfowl feather
It refers to the feather of pointed-mouth fowl.
3.11
Residue
It refers to the sundries such as dust, scurf and small blood vessel.
3.12
Moisture content
It refers to the percentage of moisture in the feather and down.
3.13
Down content
It refers to the percentage of down and down fiber in the feather and down.
3.14
Cleanliness
It represents the clean degree of the feather and down.
3.15
Oxygen number
It refers to the number of oxygen consumed (in milligram) per 100g of specimen.
3.16
Fill power
It represents the elasticity degree of the feather and down.
3.17
Mesophil aerobic bacteria count
It refers to the content of microorganism, mainly the bacteria, developed in the oxygen at a temperature of 36℃±2℃.
3.18
Faecal streptococci
It, as the gram-positive coccus, belongs to the strains of lactobacillus.
3.19
Sulphite reducing clostridium
It, of the gram positive, belongs to the clostridium, mainly referring to the anaerobic clostridium.
3.20
Salmonella
It, as the gram-negative bacillus, belongs to the strains of enterobacteriaceae.
3.21
Original extraction liquid
It refers to the filtrate obtained from the test sample treated through the physiologic peptone water as the required conditions.
3.22
Colony forming units
Colony forming unit refers to the colony composed of millions of homologous bacteria propagating from one bacterial cell on each dedicated agar, which may be observed by the naked eyes and may have different shapes (lentoid, astroid, etc.) according to the species and culture conditions.
Note: the colony forming units are expressed in CFU.
3.23
Infant's wear
It refers to the garment for the infants at the age of 36 months or below (or at the height of 100cm or below).
4 Requirements
4.1 Instructions for use
The instructions for use of the finished products shall comply with the requirements of GB 5296.4 and GB 18401, and marked with the name of the filler, down content and down-filling quantity.
4.2 Specification for size designation
4.2.1 Size designation setting shall be selected according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
4.2.2 Specifications of main positions of finished product shall be designed by oneself according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
4.3 Raw materials
4.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabric of conformity to the quality requirement of this Standard shall be selected according to the relevant textile shell fabric standards of the nation.
4.3.2 Lining
4.3.2.1 Except the special requirements, the lining with property and color matching with shell fabric used shall be adopted.
4.3.2.2 Airtight fabric and film shall not be used.
4.3.2.3 The fabrics directly contacting the down shall have the down-drilling-resistant property.
4.3.3 Accessories
4.3.3.1 Interlining
Interlining suitable for shell fabric shall be adopted, and the size change ratio hereof shall be suitable to the one of the shell fabric.
4.3.3.2 Stitch thread
Stitch thread matching the quality of accessories and linings used shall be adopted. Button thread shall be suitable to button in color; trademark thread shall be suitable to trademark ground colour (except ornamental thread).
4.3.3.3 Button and auxiliaries
Button (except ornamental button) and auxiliaries of suitability to shell fabric used shall be adopted. Buttons and auxiliaries shall be free of deformation and discoloring after washing and ironing.
4.4 Filler
4.4.1 Clear expression value of the down content in the down shall not be less than 50%.
4.4.2 The deviation between the down-filling quantity and clear expression value of the finished product shall not be less than -5.0%.
4.4.3 The indexes of down fillers, including down content, down-down content, fill power, oxygen number, fat and oil content, cleanliness, odor and microorganism (mesophil aerobic bacteria, faecal streptococci, sulphite reducing clostridium and salmonella) shall be in accordance with the requirements of Appendix A. When the oxygen number is less than or equal to ≤10 mg/100 g, the assessment for the microorganism index may be omitted.
4.5 Warp and weft direction
4.5.1 Front warp shall be subject to the closure line and shall not be inclined.
4.5.2 Back warp shall be subject to the dorsal line and its inclination shall not be greater than 1.0cm; the inclination of coat shall not be greater than 1.5cm, and stripe and plaid materials shall not be inclined.
4.5.3 Sleeve warp shall be subject to the middle line of fore sleeve and the inclination of topside sleeve shall not be greater than 1.0cm; the inclination of underside sleeve shall not be greater than 1.5cm (except the special craft).
4.5.4 Allowable degrees of front fly hem (converse warping is not allowable), back fly, sleeve and front/back trouser (skirt) pieces weft shall meet the requirements of Table 1.
Table 1 %
Shell fabric Grade
Superior quality product First-grade product Qualified product
Mixed colored, design and color ≤3 ≤4 ≤5
Stripe and plaid ≤2 ≤2.5 ≤3
4.6 Stripe and plaid matching
4.6.1 Except the special design, apparent stripes or plaids of 1.0cm or above, if on shell fabric, shall comply with the requirements of Table 2.
Table 2
Position Requirements on stripe or plaid matching Remarks
Front Stripe straight and smooth; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. If the sizes of plaids are different, take the upper part of one third front.
Pocket, flap and body piece Stripe matching of strip material; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. In case of different plaid size, subject to the front of pocket center.
Collar point Stripe and plaid shall be symmetrical, the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. If checker board weaves exist, take the obvious one.
Sleeve Two sleeves are smooth and straight, and of symmetrical stripes and plaids matching; and the mutual deviation based on sleeve cap is not greater than 1.0cm. —
Trousers (skirt) side seam The plaid materials at 10cm below the side seam pocket opening shall be matching of plaid material, the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.5cm. —
Front/back crotch seam Stripe and plaid shall be symmetrical; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.5cm. —
4.6.2 The fabric and velvet, checker board weave material and the whole body shall be in the same direction (the whole part of long-hair raw materials shall be in the same direction).
4.6.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main picture, the whole body shall be in the same direction.
4.7 Color difference
Colour difference of sleeve seam, side seam and lower crotch seam shall not be less than Grade 3~4, and that on other surface positions shall not be less than Grade 4.Colour difference caused by the interlining adhered or multi-layer materials shall not be less than Grade 3~4. The color difference between top and trouser in a suit shall not be less than Grade 3~4.
4.8 Appearance defects
The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3. The division of the positions of finished product is detailed in Figure 1. Only one defect is allowable on each independent position, and the defects not listed in this Standard shall, by form, comply with the similar defects in Table 3.
Table 3
Defect name The allowable existence degree at each position
Position 1 Position 2 Position 3
Yarn defect Not obvious, 0.3 cm~1.0 cm
Obvious, unallowable Not obvious, 1.0 cm~2.0 cm
Obvious, unallowable Not obvious, 2.0 cm~4.0 cm
Obvious, 1.0 cm~4.0 cm
Granular roving Unallowable Unallowable Unallowable
Weft bar Unallowable Obvious, unallowable Not wider than 0.2cm
Spot defect (oil stain and color spot) Unallowable Not obvious, not greater than 0.3 cm2
Obvious, unallowable Not obvious, not greater than 0.5 cm2
Obvious, unallowable
Hole, wear, cobweb Unallowable Unallowable Unallowable
Note 1: not obvious defects are those that can be discovered if identified carefully and not obviously affect the appearance.
Note 2: only one defect within the allowable existence degree is permitted on each position; the defects more than one shall be counted as flaw and may be accumulated.
Note 3: the defects not listed in this Standard may, by form, are judged with reference to the similar defects in the Table.
Figure 1 Position division of the finished product
4.9 Sewing
4.9.1 Requirements for the symmetry of transverse quilting threads on the surface are detailed in Table 4.
Foreword i
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Terms and Definitions
4 Requirements
5 Testing Methods
6 Inspection Classification Rules
7 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Physical and Chemical Index Requirements of Feather and Down
Appendix B (Normative) Test Method of Down-Filling Quantity in the Finished Product
Appendix C (Normative) Test Method of Feather and Down
Appendix D (Normative) Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam
Appendix E (Normative) Test Method of the Fabric Down-Drilling-Resistant Property-Friction Test Method
Appendix F (Normative) Microstructures and features of goose and duck feather and down.
