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This standard was drafted according to the rules in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This Standard replaces "Skirts and Skirted Suit" (FZ/T 81004-2003) and the main changes are as follows in this Standard as compared to FZ/T 81004-2003:
- the application scope of the standard was modified (see Chapter 1, Chapter 1 in 2003 Edition );
- normative references were supplemented (see Chapter 2, Chapter 2 in 2003 Edition);
- requirements of the application instructions of finished products were modified (see 3.1, 3.1 in 2003 Edition);
- quality requirements of buttons, zippers and accessories were modified (see 3.3.3.3, 3.3.3.3 in 2003 Edition);
- the requirements of warp and weft direction were modified (see 3.4, 3.4 in 2003 Edition);
- requirements of stripes and plaid matching were modified (see 3.5.1, 3.5.1 in 2003 Edition);
- the evaluation requirement of color difference was modified (see 3.7.1, 3.7.1 in 2003 Edition);
- the evaluation index of appearance defects was modified (see 3.8, 3.8 in 2003 Edition);
- evaluation requirements of sewing are supplemented (see 3.9, 3.9 in 2003 edition);
- the physical and chemical performance requirements were modified (see Section 3.12, Section in 2003 Edition), the evaluation requirements of lining color fastness to water, colour fastness to perspiration, abbuting and cross dyeing colour fastness were added, evaluation index of shell fabric color fastness to wet friction and the allowable degree of shell fabric colour fastness were modified, the seam performance index was modified, the requirements for formaldehyde content and pH value pH value limit in the finished product was modified, the requirements for peculiar smell and detachable aromatic amine dyes of finished products were added and the quality requirements for appearance after cleaning and drying were added;
- test method was modified (see Chapter 4, Chapter 4 in 2003 Edition) and the rating method of pilling sample photograph was cancelled ( see 4.4.3 in 2003 Edition):
- Classification of finished product inspection was modified (see 5.1, 5.1 in 2003 Edition);
- the determination criterion of finished product quality was enriched and improved (see 5.2.3, 5.2.3 in 2003 Edition);
- the details in Appendix A in this Standard were modified (see Appendix A, Appendix A in 2003 Edition).
This Standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This Standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
Drafting organizations of this Standard: Shenzhen Academy of Metrology& Quality Inspection, Shanghai Garment Research Institute, National Garments Quality Inspection & Supervision Center (Shanghai), Shanghai Sierli Apparal Co., Ltd., Zhuoshng Apparel (Hangzhou) Co., Ltd., Li Ning (China) Sports Goods Co., Ltd. and Fujian Jinyuan Apparel Co., Ltd..
Chief drafting staff of this standard: Yang Zhimin, Qin Wei, Yang Youhong, Sun Min, Li Dongsheng, Ding Wujie, Xu Mingming, Liao Xiaohua and Wang Hongming.
The previous editions of the standards replaced by this standard are as follows:
- FZ/T 81004-1991 and FZ/T 81004-2003.
Contents
Foreword I
1 Scope 1
2 Normative References 1
3 Requirements 2
4 Inspection Method 9
5 Inspection Classification Rules 14
6 Marking, Packaging, Transport and Storage 19
Appendix A (Normative) Seaming Performance Test Method 20
PROFESSIONAL STANDARD
OF THE PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
中华人民共和国行业标准
FZ/T 81004-2012
Replace FZ/T 81004-2003
Dress and Lady Suit
连衣裙、裙套
1 Scope
This standard specifies all the technical characteristics of skirt, dress and lady suit, such as the requirements, test methods, inspection and classification rules as well as marking, packaging, transportation and storage.
This standard is applicable to the skirt, dress and lady suit produced with textile fabrics as the main shell fabric.
This standard is not applicable to the apparel for infants and young children of 36 months or below.
2 Normative References
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the dated versions apply to this standard. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document (include all the amendments) is applicable to this Document.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour
GB/T 251 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Staining
GB/T 1335.2 Size Designation of Clothes Women
GB/T 1335.3 Size Designation of Clothes Children
GB/T 2910 (All the parts) Textiles - Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 2912.1 Textile - Determination of Formaldehyde - Part 1: Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)
GB/T 3920 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Rubbing
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda
GB/T 3922 Textiles - Testing Method for Colour Fastness to Perspiration
GB/T 4082.1- 2008 Textiles - Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling - Part 1: Circular Locus Method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest--Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning
GB/T 5713 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Water
GB/T 6529 Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing
GB/T 7573 Textiles - Determination of pH of the Aqueous Extract
GB/T 8170 Rules of Rounding Off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgement of Limiting Values
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test
GB/T 8530 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
GB/T 13769 Textiles - Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Cleansing”.
GB/T 13771 Textiles - Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Seams in Fabrics after Cleansing
GB/T 16988 Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fibre and Wool
GB/T 17592 Textiles - Determination of the Banned Azo Colourants
GB/T 18132 Silk Garments
GB 1 8401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
GB/T 23344 Textiles - Determination of 4 - Aminoazobenzene
FZ/T 01026 Textiles - Quantitative Chemical Analysis - Quaternary Fibre Mixtures
FZ/T 01053 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content
FZ/T 01057(All parts) Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibres
FZ/T 01095 Textile - Test Method of Elastane Fibre Content
FZ/T 30003 Method for Quantitative Analysis of Ramie (Flax Hemp) Cotton Blended Textile - Micro Projection
FZ/T 80002 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage for Garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection
FZ/T 80007.1 Test Method of Peeled off Strength Value for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining
3 Requirements
3.1 Application instruction
The application instruction of finished products shall comply with GB 5296.4 and GB 18401.
3.2 Size Designation and Specification
3.2.1 Size designation setting shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
3.2.2 The specification for the main parts of the finished products shall be designed independently in accordance with the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
3.3 Material
3.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabric of conformity to the quality requirement of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant national textile shell fabric standards.
3.3.2 Lining
Lining suitable for the applied shell fabric and meeting in accordance with the quality requirements of this Standard shall be adopted.
3.3.3 Accessories
3.3.3.1 Lining cloth and shoulder pad
The interlining and shoulder pad appropriate for the dimensional change ratio and thickness of the shell fabric shall be adopted; its quality shall meet the requirements in this standard.
3.3.3.2 Stitch thread
Stitch thread appropriate for the performance, color and lustre of the applied shell fabric and accessory fabric; the shrinkage of embroidery thread shall be appropriate to the shell fabric; the button thread shall be suitable for the color and lustre of the button; trademark pinning line shall be suitable for the bottom color of brand (except for the ornamental thread).
3.3.3.3 Button, zipper and accessories
Button, zipper and other accessories suitable for the applied shell fabric shall be adopted, the button shall be smooth on surface and free from damage, and the accessories shall be free from residual defects, sharp points and sharp edges and be non-deformation, nondiscolouring, non-staining and rustless after cleaning and/or ironing and pressing. The zipper mesh is in good condition and smooth.
3.4 Warp and weft direction
The allowable skewness degree of back, sleeve and straight skirt shall not be larger than 3%, and the front fly hem is not turned.
3.5 Stripe and plaid matching
3.5.1 Apparent stripes or plaids over 1.0cm, if on shell fabric, shall comply with the requirements of Table 1.
Table 1 In cm
Position name Requirements for stripe and plaid matching Remark
Right and left front fly Strip is smooth and straight; plaid is aligned horizontally; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. If the sizes of stripes and plaids are different, the one half upper part of the dress length shall prevail.
Pocket and front Stripe matching of strip material; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm; the patch pockets on the skewing materials shall be symmetrical bilaterally; the mutual deviation shall be not greater than 0.5 (except for the shadow stripes and plaids). If the sizes of plaids are different, the front part of the pocket prevails.
Collar point and lapel Strip materials shall be symmetrical and the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.2. In case of any shadow plaid, apparent stripe and plaid prevail.
Back yoke
Strip materials are smooth and straight and the compared mutual deviation of two strips is no greater than 0.4. Obvious strips prevail.
Sleeve cap Left and right cuff button stripes and plaids are smooth and straight, symmetrical to the vertical stripes, and the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.2. Obvious strip prevails.
Sleeve Strips shall be smooth and straight and plaids shall be aligned horizontally; the sleeve top shall prevail; two sleeves shall be symmetrical; and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.8. -
Sleeve and front The front and rear sleeve seam plaid materials above the elbow line shall be aligned horizontally; the mutual deviation of two sleeves shall not be greater than 0.8cm. -
Back seam Strip materials shall be aligned in strips, the plaid materials shall be aligned horizontally and the mutual deviation is no greater than 0.3. If the sizes of plaids are different, the upper back shall prevail.
Side seam The plaid materials shall be aligned horizontally, and the mutual deviation at 10cm below the arm hole shall not be greater than 0.4cm. -
Skirt side seam Strip is smooth and straight; plaid is aligned horizontally; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. -
Note: it is exclusive of special design.
3.5.2 The allowable skewness degree of colored woven checks shall not be larger than 3%.
3.5.3 The velvet (down), checker board weave shell fabric and the whole body shall be in the same direction (except the special design).
3.5.4 Shell fabric with special patterns shall be subject to the main picture and the whole body shall be in the same direction.
3.6 Abbuting
The facing may be spliced once below the lapel and above the undermost button hole, but shall avoid button hole position. As for the waistband top of skirt, abbuting is allowed at the back seam or side seam and is not allowed at other positions (except for the special design).
3.7 Color difference
3.7.1 The color difference between waistband top and body piece shall not be less than Grade 4.The color difference of lining shall not be less than 3-4 grades
3.7.2 The color difference of top and skirt in the lady suit shall not be less than 4 grades. Colour difference on other indicated positions shall be higher than 4 grades
3.7.2 The color difference between the tops and skirts in the suit shall not less than 4 grades.
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Requirements
4 Inspection Method
5 Inspection Classification Rules
6 Marking, Packaging, Transport and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Seaming Performance Test Method
